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Finally, to immerse yourself in the Lisbon art of living, we will end the evening with a movie and a glass of vinho verde at the bar of the Cinémateca Portuguesa (rua Barata Salgueiro, 39). From there, you will reach the Calouste-Gulbenkian Foundation and its masterpieces in a few steps. And if you prefer to picnic in the sun, head to Parque Eduardo VII.
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More traditional, the Antiga Casa Faz Frio is a tasca (popular canteen) which has hardly changed since its creation in 1918 (street Dom Pedro V, 96).
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At lunchtime, going back down to the Tagus, a stop is essential at André Coelho and Marta Caldeirão, the duo at the head of the new restaurant Âmago, a pocket handkerchief where you can enjoy Portuguese dishes revisited with finesse and modernity ( rua da Alegria, 41C). The art of antiquing: advice from Sophie Fontanelīut the most spectacular concept store in the area is undoubtedly Embaixada, at 26 praça do Príncipe Real, housed in a magnificent Moorish-style palace. We will then hunt for vintage clothes in El Dorado (rua do Norte, 25) before heading towards the streets Dom Pedro V and da Escola Politécnica, where there are a succession of small shops selling design and decorative objects. The must, go there on Friday evening to listen to a fado concert: the acoustics are worth the trip. With its pillars ten meters high, the place, open to visitors, is impressive. The first reservoir in the city’s distribution network, the Reservatório da Patriarcal was designed in 1856 by French engineer Louis-Charles Mary. The Embaixada concept store, at 26 praça do Príncipe Real, housed in a magnificent Moorish-style palace It’s hard to imagine that under this square hides a water museum. A stone’s throw away, Praça do Príncipe Real, picturesque and shady, is the spot to drink an espresso sitting in the shade of a kiosk. To soak up its arty spirit, we will begin the visit with the new gallery of Frenchman Alexandre Neimann, Barracuda Interiors, which features stunning pieces of furniture from the late 19th century to the 1980s (Rua do Vale de Pereiro, 8A), before heading to the Jardim botânico, a bucolic temple where you can take a nap in the middle of fragrant jacaranda trees.
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Initially frequented by the gay community, this district in full awakening now welcomes restaurateurs and young designers. But above all, it is an ideal base for discovering Príncipe Real. The icing on the cake, this “Mama Lisboa” has a postcard-perfect roof top with a 360-degree view of the White City and a well-known brunch every weekend.
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It’s done, and all the codes of “Mama” are there: five-star bedding but affordable prices, cool welcome, punchy designs on the ceiling, pop decor, table football, pizza oven, superhero masks on the bedside lamps… All embellished with more local touches, such as the ceramic fish signed Bordallo Pinheiro. The white city was one of the last strongholds in Europe not to benefit from the advantages of the chain founded by the Trigano family.
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The atmosphere is good for the inauguration of the new Mama Shelter hotel in Lisbon, located between the streets of Príncipe Real and Avenida da Liberdade. The DJ is on the decks, the small dishes of bacalhau circulate, the guests dance and shout.